Try to obtain a radiator that is exactly the same model as the one you plan to replace. This will make the job relatively straightforward.
SIMPLE REPLACEMENT
Drain the old radiator and remove it from the wall, then unscrew both of the valve adaptors from the bottom with anadjustable spanner, or if necessary, a hexagonal radiator spanner. Unscrew the bleed valve, using the bleed key and then the two blanking plugs from the top of the radiator, using a square or hexagonal radiator spanner.
Use wire wool to clean any corrosion from the threads of both adaptors and blanking plugs, then wind four or five turns of PFTE tape round the threads. Screw the plugs and adaptors into the new radiator and then screw the bleed valve into it's blanking plug.
Hang the new radiator on the wall brackets and connect the valves to their adaptors. Open the valves, then fill and bleed the radiator.
REPLACEMENT WITH A DIFFERENT PATTERN RADIATOR
Rather more work is involved in the replacement if you can't get a radiator of the same pattern as the old one. You will have to fit new wall brackets and alter the pipe runs. (A post of how to fit new heated towel rails will be coming soon.)
Drain your central heating system, then take the old brackets off the wall. Lay the new radiator face down on the floor and slide one of its brackets onto the hangers welded to the back of the radiator. Measure the position of the brackets and transfer these measurements to the wall. You need to allow a clearance of 100 or 125mm (4 or 5in) below the radiator.
Line up the pencil marks on the wall, and mark the fixing-screw holes for them. Drill and plug the holes, then screw the brackets in place.
Take up the floorboards below the radiator and cut off the vertical portions of the feed and return pipes. Connect the valves to the bottom of the radiator and hang it on it's brackets. Slip a short length of pipe into each of the valves as a guide for any further trimming of the pipes under the floor. Connect these lengths to the original pipes with capillary or compression fittings, then connect the new pipes to the valves.
Finally, refill the system with water, and check all the new connnections and joints for leaks.
SIMPLE REPLACEMENT
Drain the old radiator and remove it from the wall, then unscrew both of the valve adaptors from the bottom with anadjustable spanner, or if necessary, a hexagonal radiator spanner. Unscrew the bleed valve, using the bleed key and then the two blanking plugs from the top of the radiator, using a square or hexagonal radiator spanner.
Use wire wool to clean any corrosion from the threads of both adaptors and blanking plugs, then wind four or five turns of PFTE tape round the threads. Screw the plugs and adaptors into the new radiator and then screw the bleed valve into it's blanking plug.
Hang the new radiator on the wall brackets and connect the valves to their adaptors. Open the valves, then fill and bleed the radiator.
REPLACEMENT WITH A DIFFERENT PATTERN RADIATOR
Rather more work is involved in the replacement if you can't get a radiator of the same pattern as the old one. You will have to fit new wall brackets and alter the pipe runs. (A post of how to fit new heated towel rails will be coming soon.)
Drain your central heating system, then take the old brackets off the wall. Lay the new radiator face down on the floor and slide one of its brackets onto the hangers welded to the back of the radiator. Measure the position of the brackets and transfer these measurements to the wall. You need to allow a clearance of 100 or 125mm (4 or 5in) below the radiator.
Line up the pencil marks on the wall, and mark the fixing-screw holes for them. Drill and plug the holes, then screw the brackets in place.
Take up the floorboards below the radiator and cut off the vertical portions of the feed and return pipes. Connect the valves to the bottom of the radiator and hang it on it's brackets. Slip a short length of pipe into each of the valves as a guide for any further trimming of the pipes under the floor. Connect these lengths to the original pipes with capillary or compression fittings, then connect the new pipes to the valves.
Finally, refill the system with water, and check all the new connnections and joints for leaks.